{"id":91328,"date":"2013-06-04T07:14:48","date_gmt":"2013-06-04T05:14:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mojabochnia.pl\/?p=91328"},"modified":"2013-06-04T09:33:01","modified_gmt":"2013-06-04T07:33:01","slug":"z-lapczycy-w-himalaje","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mojabochnia.pl\/?p=91328","title":{"rendered":"Z \u0141apczycy w Himalaje"},"content":{"rendered":"

Wyprawa na Ama Dablam – jak podkre\u015blaj\u0105 himalai\u015bci – przeznaczona jest wy\u0142\u0105cznie dla os\u00f3b z do\u015bwiadczeniem wspinaczkowym, posiadaj\u0105cych umiej\u0119tno\u015b\u0107 swobodnego poruszania si\u0119 w skale i na lodowcu. <\/p>\n

Ekspedycja Rafa\u0142a Raczy\u0144skiego w Himalaje trwa\u0142a 28 dni i kosztowa\u0142a ok. 15 tys. z\u0142 (nie licz\u0105c koszt\u00f3w sprz\u0119tu). Pierwszym etapem wyprawy by\u0142a aklimatyzacja trwaj\u0105ca ok. 15 dni na wysoko\u015bci do 5 tys. m n.p.m. Z trekkingowych \u0142atwych szczyt\u00f3w zdoby\u0142em Avia Peak, Kahla Patar, bardzo pi\u0119kny widokowo na Mount Everest. Po aklimatyzacji w okolicach Gorak Shep podj\u0119li\u015bmy pr\u00f3b\u0119 zdobycia szczytu Island Peak (6189 m n.p.m.). To, \u017ce jest to szczyt trekkingowy nie oznacza \u017ce jest \u0142atwy, bo powy\u017cej 5800 m jest do pokonania pionowa \u015bciana przez lodowiec i szczeliny<\/em> \u2013 m\u00f3wi Rafa\u0142 Raczy\u0144ski.<\/p>\n

Niestety, cel wyprawy, czyli Ama Dablam, nie zosta\u0142 osi\u0105gni\u0119ty ze wzgl\u0119du na za\u0142amanie pogody. Uczestnikom wyprawy uda\u0142o si\u0119 doj\u015b\u0107 tylko do obozu trzeciego na 6300 m n.p.m. <\/p>\n

To nie pierwsza du\u017ca wyprawa Rafa\u0142a Raczy\u0144skiego. Wcze\u015bniej zdoby\u0142 Mount Blanc i Matterhorn w Alpach oraz Peak Lenina w Pamirze (7134 m n.p.m.). Wybieraj\u0105c si\u0119 w Himalaje Rafa\u0142 Raczy\u0144ski wybra\u0142 na cel ekspedycji szczyt Ama Dablam z kilku powod\u00f3w. <\/p>\n

Chodzi\u0142o o sprawdzenie si\u0119 pod wzgl\u0119dem trudno\u015bci. Peak Lenina to \u2013 jak m\u00f3wi\u0105 \u2013 naj\u0142atwiejszy siedmiotysi\u0119cznik na \u015bwiecie. Ama Dablam jest g\u00f3r\u0105 bardzo trudn\u0105 technicznie, wed\u0142ug niekt\u00f3rych trudniejsz\u0105 ni\u017c Mount Everest. Chodzi\u0142o mi o sprawdzenie, jak m\u00f3j organizm zachowuje si\u0119 powy\u017cej 6 tys. metr\u00f3w. Okazuje si\u0119, \u017ce by\u0142o bardzo dobrze, aklimatyzacja przebieg\u0142a bez \u017cadnych problem\u00f3w. My\u015bl\u0119, \u017ce szczyt by\u0142by do zdobycia, gdyby pogoda utrzyma\u0142a si\u0119 przez 2-3 dni. Wszystkie ekipy mi\u0119dzynarodowe schodzi\u0142y i ko\u0144czy\u0142y wiosenne wyj\u015bcie na Ama Dablam, bo jest jeszcze pr\u00f3ba jesienna. Lato odpada, poniewa\u017c jest tam monsun i od czerwca do ko\u0144ca wrze\u015bnia padaj\u0105 ulewne deszcze<\/em> – m\u00f3wi. <\/p>\n

Na razie Rafa\u0142 Raczy\u0144ski nie chce zdradza\u0107 plan\u00f3w na przysz\u0142o\u015b\u0107. P\u00f3ki co b\u0119dzie w\u0119drowa\u0142 po Tatrach (ma kurs przewodnika tatrza\u0144skiego) oraz Alpach. Kolejna wyprawa w g\u00f3ry wysokie jest zapewne tylko kwesti\u0105 czasu. <\/p>\n

Wi\u0119cej szczeg\u00f3\u0142\u00f3w dotycz\u0105cych wyprawy na Ama Dablam znajdziesz tutaj<\/a>.<\/p>\n\t \r\n\t\r\n\t

\r\n\t \"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\t <\/div>\r\n\t ","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rafa\u0142 Raczy\u0144ski z \u0141apczycy zdoby\u0142 niedawno kilka szczyt\u00f3w w Himalajach. Celem wyprawy by\u0142 Ama Dablam (6812 m n.p.m.). G\u00f3ra jest trudna technicznie, d\u0142ugie odcinki prowadz\u0105 w skalnym, stromym terenie (miejscami do V+, VI). <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5,6247,6246,6251,6250],"tags":[6243,17192,12558,12559,17195,12560],"class_list":["post-91328","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-biezace-wydarzenia","category-fotogaleria","category-medium","category-polityka-i-wydarzenia","category-tematyka","tag-alpy","tag-gory","tag-himalaje","tag-rafal-raczynski","tag-tatry","tag-wspinaczka","main_tag-gory"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nZ \u0141apczycy w Himalaje - mojabochnia.pl - portal informacyjny<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mojabochnia.pl\/?p=91328\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Z \u0141apczycy w Himalaje - mojabochnia.pl - portal informacyjny\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Rafa\u0142 Raczy\u0144ski z \u0141apczycy zdoby\u0142 niedawno kilka szczyt\u00f3w w Himalajach. 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